My CRF is a 2015 model that I purchased new in August 2015.
I won’t go into a lot of detail why I selected this bike since I covered that
in my earlier posts but my primary reasons were:
1
Honda reliability
2
Price ($1600 cheaper than my other choices)
3
Weight (It is heavier than some other 250 size
bikes but still lighter than a KLR650)
4
Availability
5
Abundant spare parts and repair facilities along
route
6
EFI (no carburetor)
7
21” front tire
I knew that the bike had plenty of limitations but was
willing to work around those based on numerous reviews I read before purchase.
Limitations:
1
Low Power compared to Yamaha WR250R (Yamaha
$1600 more)
2
Heavy for a 250cc compared to the KTM, etc.
3
Non-adjustable suspension (WR250R is adjustable)
4
Others I’m sure
Modifications:
The basic off the floor CRF needs a number of enhancements
to make it ready for the TAT. The $1600 savings on sale price came in handy in
this area. BTW, the WR250R would have needed most of these same enhancements. I
must make it clear that I put a lot of stuff on my CRF and I’m sure lots of
other riders would not need or want the mods I made. One note though, most of
this stuff is reusable on my next bike:
1
Rear Rack (Manracks – comes ready to mount
RotoPax auxiliary fuel tank. Good quality and worked well on trip)
2
RAM Mounts for GPS, GoPro, etc (several
different types used and I’m very pleased with their quality and variety)
3
30mm handlebar risers (made riding standing on
pegs more comfortable. Before adding them I had to bend over to ride standing
up)
4
Engine Skid Plate (get good quality since I hit
lots of rocks on TAT Leg-1)
5
Radiator shield (A must considering the amount
of gravel on the TAT)
6
1 Gallon RotoPax and mounting (2 gal RotoPax
doesn’t fit well and interfered with my bags. 2 each 1 Gallons would be better.
Very pleased with their quality and I used mine several times)
7
Folding shift lever (I actually bent this one
and put my original back on the bike. Carry a spare. I’m not sure anything will
stop bending a shift lever. I bent the folding one and Woodrow bent the
original version. Just buy a spare.)
8
13 tooth (13t) front sprocket (replaced 14t and
it made a world of difference on this bike. 2nd gear will climb
almost any hill and I only go to 1st on the real serious climbs. A
must do mod and pretty cheap. Doesn’t require replacing or modifying the chain).
9
Doubletake mirrors (They are great and don’t
break when dropping the bike. I had to roughen up the ball ends with sand paper
so they wouldn’t move when ridding on highway)
10
Seatconcepts seat (Fantastic replacement for
that original 2X4 board of an original seat)
11
Grand Loop (GL) Fandango Tank Bag (I was
doubtful at first but I love this bag. It looks huge but I filled it up on the
TAT ride. It also unzips for easy on/off and to fill gas. Only issue was
zippers got hard to operate when in heavy dust environment. Going to get some
silicon spray for next trip)
12
GL Great Basin horseshoe bag (Same great quality
and worked perfectly on this trip. I wasn’t sure how well I would like the
mounting but once I strapped the GL to the bike I never took it off until the
end. You must use the internal waterproof bags to not only ensure your stuff
stays dry but for easy packing/unpacking. Each night I would only take out the
internal bags I needed. I left in the repair kit and 1st aid kit. Be
sure to make sure the internal bags (3) come with the GL bag. Some sites want
another $30 for them. Order direct from GL and they come in the basic price)
13
LED Taillight from DRCHardware (Replaces that
huge hunk of junk that comes on the basic bike with a streamlined and much more
visible light. Also replaces the rear turn lights.)
14
Zeta Hand Guards (Whatever you do put hand
guards on your CRF. I’ve dropped my bike more times than I can remember and
they have worked every time. Woodrow took a pretty serious fall missing a dog
and they saved his hands and serious damage to his bike)
15
Speedometer compensator from 12oclock labs
(Replacing the front sprocket makes the speedo about 7% wrong. Using a GPS you
don’t even need the Speedo but it irritated me so I fixed it with this mod. It
works 100% but a little pricy).
16
Garmin Zumo 660LM GPS (Love this GPS. It has
bright and large display, its waterproof and has a fantastic mounting system.
One issue was after riding several days in dusty conditions the release lock on
the mount was jammed and I couldn’t get the GPS off. I poured water on the
mount and GPS and it finally came loose. A little silicon spray may work to
keep it free. I used this GPS primarily to find gas, food and motels but it
will also follow routes generated from the TAT tracks)
17
Garmin 64ST GPS (I’m a dedicate Garmin fan and I
also love this GPS. It is loaded with Topo maps and primarily for off road use.
Doesn’t follow highways worth a darn but great for following GPX tracks I
received from Sam (or GPSKevin). It really came in handy identifying possible
water crossings)
18
GoPro camera (What can I say, GoPro works and
makes great video. I have the early Hero 2 so controls are cumbersome but when
I took the time it would make great video).
19
Dunlap D606 tires (I really only selected these
after reading some good reviews. They worked great and didn’t wear too much
considering the highway miles we had to do. Other tire may be better but I was
happy with the performance of these (front and rear were installed at
Charleston, mile 0 of 1400 miles))
20
Intercom Sena SMH10 (I have mixed feelings about
these units. I had two older versions and we bought 2 newer versions for a
total of 4 (max number that can be connected). I uploaded the firmware for the
older two so they were all using same firmware. We could never get more than 3
to connect while on the TAT. We had tested them before the trip and had all 4
on line so not sure what changed. Making 4 or 3 way connection is a pain but
once connected they seem to reconnect just by turning them on. Range not more
than ½ mile and probably less in any kind of terrain. Speeds above 35 made them
useless due to wind noise. I used CB radios on 2 AK trips with a lot less
issues. The waterproof CB is expensive but if I had to do it again I would go
CB rather than Bluetooth intercom.)
21
Bike Lock by Bilt (I bought a cheap brake disk
lock on sale at Cycle Gear and almost couldn’t get it off the bike due to all
the dust and dirt that had gotten into the lock. Don’t buy cheap here because
of the consequences if it does permanently jam).
22
Bike Cover from Wal-Mart (It worked and kept
prying eyes off the bike but some of the other riders bought better fitting
ones from Cycle Gear at a small increase in price).
23
Auxiliary Power Outlet from Cycle Gear (I
installed a 3 amp fuse in line but changed it to 5 amp when my air pump blew
the 3 amp).
Honda CRF250L Performance:
The review below is my experience since I purchased the CRF
in Aug 2015. I have about 3,000 miles on this bike, 1,400 of them just
completing Leg-1 of the TAT; Charleston, SC to Little Rock, AR.
I’ve owned more bikes than I can remember but in recent
years I’ve owned mostly large touring bikes:
1
Honda 750 Shadow
2
Yamaha 650 Classic
3
Yamaha 1600 Road Star
4
Harley Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic (Rode to
Yukon, Canada on AK1 - 6,000+ miles)
5
Yamaha Super Tenere XT1200Z (Rode to Alaska and
Arctic Circle on AK2 – 8,000 miles, including Iron Butt)
I bought my first dirt bike after nearly 40 years for riding
the TAT last August 2015. I had forgotten how much I enjoyed riding small dirt
bikes and the fun they provide.
The CRF250L is easy to ride and maneuvers effortlessly on
roads or trails. With the right tires it handles mud and sand pretty well. I
have yet to bottom out the suspension and I’m 5’ 10” @ 195 lbs not including
riding gear. This includes the bike loaded for TAT Leg-1 with I would estimate
at least another 50 lbs of baggage. It has a payload capacity of 350 Lbs so
I’ve never reach that yet. We have ridden on some pretty rocky and rough roads
with no issues with suspension.
It’s a pretty tough bike as proven by several dropped bike
incidents I’ve had and a couple of potential serious accidents that Woodrow had
on TAT Leg-1 (read my blog for details). Bent gear shift levers seem to be
common and the hand guards (if you have them) take a beating. Everything else
seems to be pretty tough or well protected.
Bike always starts and runs smoothly. Electrical power seems
to be good because I’m driving with a GPS plus electric jacket and gloves plus
have an iPhone plugged in charging. Woodrow has heated grips installed with no
problem.
Fuel tank is small at 2.1 gallons. I tested my mpg before
Leg-1 and got 72 mpg but that was in city and highway miles at around 45-50
mph; 140 miles per tank including reserve. The reserve indicator starts
flashing when you have ½ gallon remaining. You have a fuel gage on this bike so
it is pretty nice. Riding TAT Leg-1 was a lot of slow speed riding plus many
climbs. This brought the mpg down to around 50 mpg. At 90-100 miles my
indicator would start to flash meaning I had maybe 20-25 miles of range to empty.
I’m considering a larger 3 gallon fuel tank for the next two legs because we
seemed to have to find fuel every 100 miles (not wanting to use the extra 1 Gal
of fuel in the RotoPax). My main concern is I will lose the fuel gage
capability or at least it won’t be accurate. It is also a pricy modification
($400+). Still deciding on this one.
Here is where the CRF250L suffers. It is underpowered. I had
plenty of power to do Leg-1 but I could feel on the really steep climbs on
rocky roads in 1st gear that I was pretty close to the top of the
power band. I never ran out of power but I’m a little concerned what riding to
the top of a 12,000’ mountain pass will feel like. The vast majority of the
climbs I can do in 2nd gear and ride a constant 18 mph. It’s the
very steep and rocky ones that cause the problem. I’m 90% sure I will do the
engine upgrade to put a FMF exhaust and new Electronic Fuel Control Module on
before I start Leg-2. I wanted to see how the stock engine handled Leg-1 and
now I know a little more power would be nice to have out west.
The CRF is also slow, probably due to the power issue in the
previous paragraph. We had to ride a lot on 2 lane paved roads with speed
limits of 55-65. My stock CRF can do maybe 60-65 but feels a lot more
comfortable at 50-55. At 60-65 it is pulling hard and has lots of engine
vibration. I can just feel that it is working hard and I hate to put that kind
of strain on the CRF for long durations. An increase in power may make it
handle the higher speeds with a bit les strain. If not then it is something to
realize if you buy the CRF.
Summary:
1
Would I buy the CRF250L again? Yes, the price is
right and it is so much fun to ride.
2
Would I like a more powerful bike? Maybe. The
KTM’s are lite but much more expensive and all the ones I know seem to need
much more repair than the CRF250L. WR250R may be better.
3
Would I rather have the Yamaha WR250R or the
CRF250L? I would probably go with the Yamaha if money wasn’t an issue because
it is $1,600 more but it does have a stronger engine and adjustable suspension.
If money is an issue then the CRF is a great buy and so far is doing everything
I ask.
I will try to get the other riders to do reviews on their
WR250R and KLR650 but I can’t promise they will do as good a job as mine, just
kidding.
I will next do a gear review of the riding gear and other
miscellaneous items I carried.
The 13 tooth does leave the engine a little high in the rev range at 60 mph. An FMFq4, K&N air filter, and a fuel programmer makes it pull the 14 tooth pretty good on the road. Great writing as always. I understand the WR power is higher in the RPM range and is not as laid back to ride.
ReplyDeleteEverything is a compromise of course. I only had problems at highway speeds the last day when we had 35 mph gusting wind from the side and lots of truck traffic that wanted us out of the way. Most other highways had lite traffic so we could pull off and let them by. Thanks for the comments.
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